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Freedman's Village When President Lincoln passed legislation freeing all the slaves in the District of Columbia on April 16, 1862, large numbers of emancipated and fugitive slaves from Virginia and Maryland fled to the city for protection. Facing a humanitarian crisis, contraband hospitals and camps were established, but overcrowding and poor living conditions led to rampant diseases that contributed to high mortality rates. The issuance of the Emancipation Proclamation on January 1, 1863, led to an additional influx of African Americans and prompted military officials to establish Freedman's Village.
On May 5, 1863, Lieutenant Colonel Elias M. Greene, and Danforth B. Nichols, American Missionary Association, selected Arlington Plantation as the site for a model community for emancipated and fugitive slaves. The location satisfied the government's desire to remove the former slaves from the city and served as a symbol to house the freedpersons on Robert E. Lee's property. By June 1863, 100 former slaves settled on "a fine plateau on the top of a hill on the Arlington Estate." Formally dedicated on December 3, 1863, the village consisted of approximately 50 frame dwellings each divided down the middle for occupancy by two families, a hospital, a home for the indigent, a school, and a chapel.
The Freedman's Bureau categorized residents into three classifications: 1) dependents (well and sick) who were unable to work; 2) residents in government employment; and 3) residents who received rations and liens on crops. The objective of the camp was to provide protection, education, instruction, and employment to residents. Men living at the village were often expected to work as military laborers or on government farms. Women labored in tailor shops sewing clothing and other goods. Over a three-month span, the industrial school produced 1,000 garments per month. The government assumed that the village would serve only as temporary housing, but many residents stayed and created a semi-permanent settlement that lasted until the turn of the twentieth century.
The population of the village greatly fluctuated with estimates suggesting over 1,000 residents at first. On one day alone, March 22, 1864, 408 survivors from the failed freedmen colony established on Ile a Vache, a small island off the cost of Haiti, arrived at Freedman's Village. In July 1867, 837 inhabitants lived at Freedman's Village: 619 occupying tenements (330 of whom were dependent), 83 residing in the home for the indigent, 35 staying at the hospital, and 100 in the vicinity of the village proper.
Living conditions and the treatment of residents also widely varied. In December 1864, an investigation into the treatment of residents yielded troubling results, but the investigation spurred improvements.
Within the short space of three weeks thirty of these houses, forming one hundred and twenty distinct dwellings have been nearly completed. The inmates of the old tents have been removed to these comfortable dwellings, and the whole camp wears a different aspect.
'The Home' has been opened; and the old and feeble have been comfortably provided for. The hospital was also opened with thirty-two beds within ten days after our first visit. This has been a great relief; and a number who [were] suffering in misery have passed away their last hours in comparative comfort. —Special Inspectors at Arlington Heights, 1864
Some residents resented the policies of both the Army and then the Bureau of Refugees, Freedmen, and Abandoned Lands. Tensions over rent and rent collection strained relations. In 1866, the Freedmen's Bureau issued regulations that all inhabitants who were remotely capable enter the workforce and be required to pay rent in advance. Fifty-two heads of family were relatively successful and cultivated 280 acres of land on the estate. Renters of land included William Butler, Thornton Gray, William Rowe, and Austin Syphax. Dependent households with a lack of job opportunities, however, suffered under the new regulations. A number of residents that constructed dwellings outside of the village proper were evicted from their homes.
Closing of Freedman’s Village
In 1868, government officials attempted to close Freedman's Village permanently, but the residents successfully resisted. The government then moved the inhabitants of the Abbott Hospital and Home for the Indigent to Freedmen's Hospital in Washington, D.C. Residents of the village were allowed to purchase their dwellings and rent approximately 600 acres of land (in approximately 10-acre lots).
[In 1868,] the buildings were generally of frame; in size about 28 by 24 feet; one and a half stories in height, with 8 rooms each. They had shingled roofs, brick flues, and were sheathed on the outside with rough weather-board siding. They were not plastered or [sealed] inside. The price paid was from $35 to $50 for each building. —Military Reservation of Fort Myer and Arlington, VA., 1888
The residents continued to live on the property for another 30 years and invested in the community. They believed that they would possess a claim to Arlington as implied by the government. Between 1868 and 1888, new homes were constructed, improvements were made to the purchased dwellings, and a brick church was built.
Most of the purchasers have improved the premises by reflooring, by reroofing, by plastering or ceiling the rooms, and in several cases such improvements have been equal to twice or thrice the original cost of the building. [The buildings]...are occupied by the builders, or by those who purchased from the builders. Io these have been added small outbuildings, such as stables, sheds, chicken-houses, etc. —Military Reservation of Fort Myer and Arlington, VA., 1888
In 1888, the village consisted of 124 dwellings, 3 shops, 2 churches, 1 school, and 170 families totaling a population of 763. There were two justices of the peace, one constable, and two special policemen. Most of the adult males voted and paid taxes (personal property, poll, school, and road taxes). Over 50 percent of the families who lived at the village had resided on the property for at least 15 years. Development pressure and other factors led to renewed efforts to close Freedman's Village. John B. Syphax requested that the Secretary of War compensate each homeowner $350 for the loss of property.
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Development of Nauck Neighborhood John D. Nauck purchased and subdivided a large section of Nauck. Born in Germany in 1846, Nauck immigrated to the United States ca. 1854. During the Civil War, he served in the Confederate Army as a Private. After the war, he lived in Washington, D.C., worked as an upholsterer, and married Martha Ann Webb in 1872. They purchased 46 acres from Rudolph Buckley and Emma Jones on November 5, 1874, and 23 acres from John and Mary Winsatt on December 21, 1875. The Naucks subdivided the land and lived on a parcel with their two children. Thomas N. Carter completed a survey entitled the "Map of the Town of Nauck, Alexandria County, Virginia (formerly known as Nauckville and Convalescent Camp)" on July 1, 1876, but it was not recorded until November 16, 1885. The community continued to be known by African Americans as "Nauckville" into the late-nineteenth century as evidenced by weekly articles in the Washington Bee.
[John D.] Nauck also held county positions such as Justice of the Peace between 1890 and 1891. Between 1880 and 1900, Nauck completed land sales primarily to African Americans, possibly even those leaving Freedman's Village. The Washington Post reported that Nauck had sold considerable property to African Americans in Alexandria County. Purchasers had paid him per an installment plan. Nauck fled the County when an African American resident of Nauck in arrears reportedly assaulted and threatened him and his family when he tried to evict him from their property in 1891. John Nauck died on February 2, 1925, in Washington, D.C. He is buried in the Confederate soldiers section of Arlington National Cemetery.
The subdivision of Nauck slowly grew in the late nineteenth century. The availability of land coupled with a prominent group of settled African American owners, establishment of the A.M.E. Zion Church, success of the Kemper School, and opening of a railroad station on the Richmond and Danville Railroad (later known as the Washington & Old Dominion Railroad) made it a desirable location.
The Nauckville Post-Office, Nauckville is about two miles from the Arlington Post-Office, and with a Depot Station, School-house, and Church, to the population of one hundred fifty citizens are entitled to a post-office of their town.
—Washington Bee, June 13, 1896
The neighborhood welcomed an influx of African Americans forced to vacate Freedman's Village. Between 1880 and 1900, the majority of Nauck residents served as farm laborers or brick layers. Additional employment opportunities were made possible with the opening of Nauck Station on the Fort Myer line of the Washington, Alexandria, and Falls Church Railway at the turn of the twentieth century. The electric railway allowed residents of Nauck to more easily commute to Rosslyn, Washington, D.C., and other nearby places of employment.
Development of the neighborhood continued but African American settlement to Nauck, Alexandria County, and Virginia would soon be depressed with the adoption of the Virginia Constitution in 1902. The State Constitution discriminated against blacks in numerous ways including disenfranchisement, segregation, and fewer public appropriations. By 1904, the number of African Americans who voted in Virginia dropped from 147,000 to less than 10,000. The Nauck community, however, continued to grow due to local residents who further subdivided property (such as the heirs of Thornton and Selina Gray, William Rowe, Henry Wallace, and Mary Norris) or the creation of adjoining subdivisions such as Fairview, West Nauck, Douglass Park, and Nauck Heights. All or significant sections of these subdivisions are considered as part of the present Nauck community. Nevertheless, Nauck still had a significant percentage of vacant lots by World War II.
Nauck's churches, schools, and lodges provided social, cultural, and religious enrichment. Jim Crow laws led to the establishment of many African American-owned businesses, particularly along present-day South Shirlington Road. By the mid-twentieth century, Nauck businesses serviced the basic needs of its residents and beyond. Cecilia Gertzikoff and Etta Bregman opened a small grocery store named Green Valley Market. Ralph Delaware Collins started the Friendly Cab Company. James Elwood Chinn opened Chinn Funeral Home. Restaurants, auto repair stores, television repair stores, beauty and barber shops, a pharmacy, and other stores created a vibrant community. Similar to Hall's Hill, some residents operated small businesses from their homes, but these stores were closed after the end of segregation.
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Levi Jones; October 7, 1844 Levi Jones, a free black man, purchases 14 acres from Elizabeth Baggot in what is now Green Valley to be near his enslaved wife Sarah Ann Gardener. Plantation owner, Alexander Frazier, enslaves Sarah and their growing family. After the Civil War, the family helps develop Nauck/Green Valley as an African American community.
“Whenever, the Union soldiers would come around and want anything I had, and had no money for it, I would give it to them. I gave them milk. That is about all I had to give them… I knew what side I was on, I had no vote before the war… " - Levi Jones, 1872
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Black Entrepreneurship in Segregated Arlington County, VA
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“We didn’t have any other place to live”: Residential Patterns in Segregated Arlington County, Virginia
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THE INFLUENCE OF GEOGRAPHY ON THE LIVES OF AFRICAN AMERICAN RESIDENTS OF ARLINGTON COUNTY, VIRGINIA, DURING SEGREGATION
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The African American Housing Crisis in Alexandria, VA (1930-1960)
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SOUTHERN SUBURB/NORTHERN CITY: BLACK ENTREPRENEURSHIP IN SEGREGATED ARLINGTON COUNTY, VIRGINIA
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“Everybody Was Looking for
a Good Government Job”: Occupational Choice during Segregation in Arlington, Virginia
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History of Nauck
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Blacks Show New Strength in Arlington
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A Chink in the Armor:The Black-Led Struggle for School Desegregation in Arlington, Virginia, and the End of Massive Resistance
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How Eminent Domain Destroyed an Arlington Community
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All Is Quiet in Arlington: The Desegregation of Arlington County Public Schools and How We Remember It
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1906 Map of DC Boundary Stones
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Arlington Black Neighborhoods 1900
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History of African American Slave Trade
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Self-published book by Halls Hill historian, Wilma Jones: My Halls Hill Family: More Than A Neighborhood, 2018. This covers 1865 to the 1960s from Wilma Jones' family perspective.
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Blog by Halls Hill historian Wilma Jones: Arlington Virginia History From the Black Side.
My name is Wilma Jones and I’m a self-published author, award-winning blogger and keynote speaker. My new project is all about the neighborhood I grew up in and still reside in today, Halls Hill. It’s a small neighborhood of about 800 families located outside Washington, DC in north Arlington, Virginia.
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Book: Andrew Kahrl, The Black Tax: 150 Years of Theft, Exploitation, and Dispossession in America. (Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press, 2024), 364n32. “Black-owned land was valued more highly by tax assessors in ninety-eight of the 191 tax districts in Virginia where Black people owned land in 1901.”
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Moore’s Barber Shop (Current and Historic) This building was built in 1940 by the Fairway Homes Company, according to Arlington County building permit #102878C (Arlington County 2019). The 1955 Arlington County directory lists LH Morgan’s Barber Shop and Ruby’s Beauty Shop, with Moore’s Barber Shop and Apts. listed in 1959, 1961, 1967, and 1972 directories (Hill Publishing Company 1955-1976).
During the Spring of 2017, students in the Urban Design Studio at Virginia Tech’s Master’s in Urban and Regional Planning Program (Alexandria campus) partnered with Arlington County’s Historic Preservation Program (HPP) to document and map “Legacy Businesses,” defined as those businesses in operation for more than 10 years. The study also gave special attention to businesses over 25 years old in the Green Valley neighborhood and along Lee Highway in Arlington, both of which are undergoing redevelopment and/or community visioning processes. Through oral interviews and archival research, the study produced short histories of several businesses in relation to the overall Arlington community. The goal of the project was to highlight the stories and voices associated with long-time places that may not be typically viewed as “historic” resources, but that nonetheless comprise an essential part of community character and vitality (Virginia Tech UAP 2017).
From the Legacy Business website at: https://www.legacybusinessarlington.com/moores-barber
Mr. James Moore, Sr., established Moore’s Barber Shop in Hall’s Hill in 1960. In 2002, the elder Mr. Moore retired and turned over the business to his son, James Moore, Jr. He had been working in the shop since he was seven years old, sweeping the floors and doing other odd tasks, and eventually joining as a full-‐time barber in 1991. The barber shop has long been known as place for not only a great haircut, but also lively conversation and a friendly atmosphere. Its walls are papered with photos of clients and other memorabilia marking historic moments in the D.C. region and country.
Mr. Jim Moore, Sr., started the barber shop in 1960, originally with a partner and at a different location a few blocks down on Lee Highway (where the KFC is now). The younger Mr. Moore started working in the shop when he was 7 years old, sweeping the floors and doing other odds and ends for a dollar per day. This continued through his youth. In 1991 he started working there full time as a barber, which allowed Mr. Moore Sr. to step back a bit from his work until he fully retired in 2002. Mr. Moore explained that many of the small independent barber shops don’t exist anymore due to competition with low-‐cost chains. Historically, the barber shop business was one of the few businesses black men could open and use to support their families. The barber shop is about personal service and relationships, and Moore’s has been able to maintain those over the years. They have generations of clients now who have been coming there for decades, and many from far away. Many young people who come are not as engaged in conversations, and Mr. Moore has had to use social media more to promote their shop in addition to word of mouth.
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Hall’s Hill / High View Park (HHHVP) Gateway Park and Sculpture (Current) The Hall’s Hill/Highview Park and Sculpture is a strategically located gateway to the Hall’s Hill/Highview Park (HHHVP) neighborhood located at the south corner of N. Cameron Street and Lee Highway in Arlington County, VA. HHHVP is, “the oldest enclave in Northern Virginia that was settled shortly after the Civil War by newly freed slaves. The community’s origin derived from two distinct names. Halls Hill, initially singled out as the upper section of the community, originated from a portion of the estates of William Marcey and Bazil Hill, who sold most of his land to his freed slaves for about sixty cents an acre and from whom the community takes its name; High View Park, was referred to as “the bottom of the hill” or lower section of the community, until 1965 when it was renamed to include the entire area because of its spectacular view of the County. High View Park has maintained its identity as one of the few surviving predominately Black communities in Arlington County for over 100 years, and holds the distinction of fostering at least four generations of Black families whose roots date back to the founding of the community” (HHPNCPC 1994:i).
The development and beautification of this site was made possible through funding by the Arlington County Neighborhood Conservation Program (NCP) and is the first of its kind to include public art (No author 2004). Arlington County’s NCP began in 1964. NCPs are initiated by the community who “lead a grassroots-based process to develop Neighborhood Conservation Plans” (ACPP n.d.). HHHVP has a long history of community activism and awareness. Their first HHHVP NCP was adopted in February 13, 1965 and updated in 1994. An NCP prioritizes community-identified concerns (i.e. street conditions, land use/zoning, housing, public facilities) to assist the County Board in better implementation of County bond funds used for neighborhood improvements (ACPP n.d.).
The first gateway park, just north of the current intersection of Lee Highway and N. Culpeper Street, was the result of the 1965 NCP. The 1960s community revitalization and beautification project included three totem poles “that captured the eyes of residents and visitor.” Unfortunately, the totem poles were partially destroyed by vandals shortly after they were erected. However, the remains of the poles have never been removed as a reminder of the community's trials and tribulations” (HHPNCPC 1964:4). Several members of the John M. Langston Civic Association have also been members of the HHHVP NCP planning committee, which provided a credible voice on the needs and wants of the community to the County. In 1994, the impetus for a replacement park was the HHHVP NCP committee who voiced neighborhood desires to modernize the community “gateway” at the intersection of N. Cameron Street and Lee Highway. Three pivotal neighborhood representations were required for the new park design: family, the Hall’s Hill legacy within High View Park, and community involvement (Green 2019).
Artist Winnie Owens-Hart, a HHHVP native, was commissioned to create representative artwork that captured the community’s longstanding values. Owens-Hart is an accomplished ceramics artist and Professor of Ceramics in the Howard University Department of Art. As designed, the HHHVP park includes two sections, Memory Bricks on the west side of N. Cameron and The Family sculpture on the east side. The inclusion of public art within this beautification effort was facilitated by ArtsWorks, a County summer employment program for creative youth (ACPAP n.d.-2). Memory Bricks is an installation art work that includes over 800 handmade, personalized bricks that were made by student apprentices Jeffrey Augustine, Tristan Benjamin, Marie Cosgrove-Davies, Alexandra Krafchek, Delanta Neal, Julia Siple, and Jeannette Yue.
Under the direction of Owens-Hart, [the] seven apprentices created decorative bricks and organized three community events where residents could also customize their own bricks. Images of Sankofa (a West African symbol representing learning from the past), churches, and bibles were inscribed into the bricks as well as names of HHHVP residents and ancestors. These images are visual reminders of the neighborhood’s past and now line the oval walkway on the west side of the park (ACPAP n.d.-2).
Community response to the project was tremendous; two standing-room only brick-engraving sessions were held at the Langston Community Center (Green 2019). Owens-Hart also designed The Family sculpture to symbolize the “strong sense of community” embodied in HHHVP (ACPAP n.d.-1). The Family is, “a monumental steel sculpture of a man, woman, and child with clasped hands. Arranged in a triangular configuration, this grouping symbolizes unity among families and residents of the neighborhood. The woman’s skirt is beautified with patterned relief, representative of traditional African scarification. Within this design is Braille text that acknowledges the vital role families play in the neighborhood. Five letters, HHHVP, stand on the west side of the park and provide prominent neighborhood identification” (ACPAP n.d.-1; Green 2019).
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2016 Guide to African American Heritage of Arlington County, Virginia
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Calloway United Methodist Church (Current and Historic) The congregation of the Calloway United Methodist Church (Calloway Church) first organized in 1866 at the residence of Samuel Smith on the Saegmuller farm (No author 1978; ACHPP 2016:18; Jones 2018: 27; Carroll 2002). The congregation moved from the Freedman’s Village area of Arlington to the Hall’s Hill area in 1870 (Maas et. al 2016: 34). The first church, a small wood-framed building constructed circa 1870 with congregant member funds, was on a site purchased from Alexander Parker in the vicinity of 4800 Lee Highway. Winston Calloway was the church’s first pastor and subsequent namesake. From 1872 to 1876, the Sumner School, a school for African American children in North Arlington County, held weekly classes in the church building. In 1888, the current site was conveyed by congregant member and church trustee, Moses Jackson, although its most long-standing structure was not constructed until 1904 (ACHPP 2016: 18). The cemetery was established during the same time with its first and last recorded burials in 1891 and 1959, respectively. The oldest graves belong to Margaret Hyson (1825-1891), an emancipated slave who worked on the Hall’s Hill plantation and the Rev. Winston Calloway (1843-1891) (Sullivan 2012; ACHPP n.d.). “The Calloway Cemetery is the oldest known church-affiliated, African American graveyard in the Hall’s Hill neighborhood and possibly in all of Arlington. This historic cemetery represents an important connection to Arlington’s undocumented African American heritage” (ACHPP n.d.); it is noted here for context with its associated church building but is recorded separately in the Virginia Cultural Resource Information System (see DHR #000-9858). The Calloway Church Cemetery became an Arlington County Historic District in 2012 and appears to be eligible for listing in the National Register of Historic Places for its association with African American Ethnic Heritage (ACHPP 2016: 18; Maas et al. 2016: 106-107).
According to the cornerstone, earliest renovations to the 1904 edifice occurred in 1940 although the extent of the building campaign is unknown.
From 1947 through 1959, Rev. John F. Monroe led Calloway. The church membership grew, and the building was improved under his pastoral leadership. John Carpenter presenting the church with new flooring and electrical fixtures. Charles Chinn and Robert Nickerson, representing Wilson Lodge #196, presented the church with the lot adjoining the church (Jones 2018: 89).
Congregant member, local architect, and Hall’s Hill community member E. Leslie Hamm was the project architect for the church’s renovation and expansion in 1979 under the pastorate of Rev. Carl Renick. The renovation nearly doubled the square footage, expanded the choir loft, and added an open bell tower, vestibule, and new classrooms (ACHPP 2016: 18). The same year as its last 1959 burial, the widening of Lee Highway caused the relocation of ten graves to Coleman Cemetery in Fairfax County (ACHPP 2016: 18; ACHPP 2012:6). More recent renovations to the building include replacement windows and a remodel of the corner tower although the overall footprint of the 1979 renovation appears intact.
For over a century, Calloway Church fulfilled roles beyond its spiritual capacity serving as a civic and social center for long-standing community organizations like the John M. Langston Citizens Association (established 1924), the John M. Langston School (established 1925), and the Hall’s Hill Volunteer Fire Department (established 1918) (Jones 2018: 58-59). During the Civil Rights Movement, Calloway Church provided student aid and hosted visitors, most notably during the Resurrection City/Poor People’s Convention (May 12 – June 24, 1968) (Jones 2018: 96, 136, 164). The church provided safe space for students to meet and prepare for integration and continued this tradition summarized in its current mission statement: “Open doors. Open hearts. Open minds.” Calloway Church is a life member of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People, which speaks to its ongoing involvement in civil rights since the 1960s.
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Hicks Bus Company
Hicks Market and Restaurant PROPERTY HISTORY
William H. and Susana Hicks were some of the first entrepreneurs in Hall’s Hill/Highview Park (HHHVP), a historically African American neighborhood of Arlington. They purchased a 3.5-acre parcel on the north side of Lee Highway with Daniel E. Wiseman in 1904 and created the “Cottage Park” subdivision. The Hicks Bus Company serviced the Rosslyn streetcar stop during the 1920s and 1930s, which was approximately four miles east of the HHHVP neighborhood.
In 1892, the Washington & Arlington Railway began to provide streetcar service from the county [Arlington] to the District of Columbia. The Washington, Alexandria, and Mount Vernon Electric Railway began the same year with service between Alexandria and Mount Vernon. Beginning in 1894, this streetcar line extended to Washington, D.C. However, with service to the African American neighborhoods limited to stops at Nauck and Penrose on the Washington & Arlington Railway line, the streetcar had less impact on the development of black communities. The neighborhood of Hall’s Hill in the northern section of the county, for example, relied on the independent Hicks Bus Line to provide access to the streetcars. The streetcar lines only connected the county to Washington, D.C. without any cross-routes within the county (Maas et. al. 2016:40, edited).
African American communities were reliant on public transportation or independent services like those provided by the Hicks Bus Company well into the twentieth century until the automobile became an affordable purchase. Although the company operated during the 1920s and 1930s, the Hicks Bus Line “was not able to compete with ever-expanding white bus services” (Bestebreurtje 2017: 221). The Hicks Bus Line began about 1924 but could not compete with multiple white businesses - including the R.L. May bus line, later the Alexandria, Barcroft and Washington (AB&W) line, as well as the Washington, Maryland and Virginia bus line. The Hicks Bus Line closed during the Depression years (Rose, Arlington County Virginia, (1976).; Benjamin “Benny” Robinson, interview by William Moris, November 6, 2003, Hall’s Hill Oral History Project, CLH in Bestebreurtje 2017: 221).
The family operated the Hicks Market and Restaurant, formerly located at 4903 Lee Highway, on lots 20 and 21 within the Cottage Park subdivision (Jones 2018: 25). By the 1950s, Hicks Market and Restaurant was a social hub with a pool hall on the second floor operated by John Hicks, Jr.. Theodore Hicks (William and Susana’s son) rented out the former general store and restaurant (Fisher 2018) on the first floor. In the 1955 Arlington County Directory, the Kermit Summers Grocery is listed at this location. The enterprise remained family-owned until it burned down in a 1956 fire and it was never rebuilt. Nevertheless, the social and civic legacy was initiated when William and Susana Hicks influenced their son and daughter-in-law, Theodore and Lucy Hicks, to help the HHHVP community persevere through racial segregation. The couple purchased lots 27 and 28 of the Cottage Park subdivision from Susana Hicks soon after their marriage in 1927, and became long-standing HHHVP community members through the 1960s. In 1944, the family deeded lot 26 to the Hall’s Hill Volunteer Fire Department (HHVFD), located at the corner of N. Culpeper Street and Lee Highway, to further root the HHVFD as a pillar of HHHVP.